Molds for Foam Latex Prosthetics for Miss Havisham/BabyJane (Advanced Make-Up Course cont …)

Again the next stage for the making of prosthetic pieces was to make molds from the sculpted face after being separated into the required pieces. Whole mask prosthetics are made from from sculpts too but that’s a very different process that I haven’t learnt how to do yet.

I started by separating the pieces on the cast in a similar way that I’d done in the basic course. This is described in a previous post again that you can read at  for more detail. Luckily though, I took more photos of this stage so it’ll be hopefully more easy to demonstrate.

I soaked the cast overnight again and then cut the pieces along very similar lines as before. Then began the time consuming process of making each cast for the prosthetics. If you remember the molds are two pieces consisting of a positive made from the original face cast of the particular area required, and the negative from the sculpted piece on top so that the foam latex injected or spooned into the mold forms this sculpted piece. The following pics show the nose mold with the flashing and keys that I tried to describe in the other post. The flashing is the extra plastilene around the sculpt that creates a bit of space for overflow of the foam latex/gelatin etc. The well around with the plaster showing causes the positive and negative to nip the prosthetic at that point and forms the thin edge that makes blending to the skin more easy.

The next pics show the same stage but with the forehead piece …

These next pics show the cheek pieces at the same stage but with a wet clay mold around the area ready for the Ultracal 30 to be poured in to create the negative side of the mold. This is where vaseline or a similar product is added to the bare plaster so that the two pieces don’t join together …

Once the negative mold is set the plastilene is removed and both sides are cleaned. The negative casts of the nose and chin looked like this …

Sometimes air bubbles in the plaster can cause holes to form which you can see has happened on the top lip of the nose cast. These would cause lumps to be created in the positive prosthetic so must be filled. A spoonful of the Ultracal 30 is put in a flat dish or saucer of water in a little pile and a paintbrush is used to apply the semi wet plaster powderfrom the edges of the pile to the holes and any other area that needs rectifying. Once smoothed and dried it becomes part of the cast and solves the problem.

The next photos show a finished two piece mold and the positive and negative sides of the nose and chin casts …

The other pieces are made in exactly same way and once they’re all complete and thoroughly dry they need to be prepared so they’re ready for the foam latex process which I’ll describe in the next post …


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